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Blog

January Scent Project thoughts and musings.

 

First Review for New Fragrance

John Biebel

Vaporocindro had its first review from esteemed writer Ida Meister of Ca Fleure Bon. She refers to the perfume as a study of hygge, the Danish idea of simple pleasures, warmth, candlelight and reflection. From her review:

Vaporocindro is atmospheric and wistfully tender, much like a melancholy kiss edged with divine decay. Its spices are very Ayurvedically warming: turmeric (the “crown jewel of the spice world” ~ Yoga Journal), black pepper, cumin. They contribute without overwhelming the composition as a whole. Black currant and apple smell resolutely tonic and mouthwatering; the jonquil is genius (granted, I am a fan), imparting that fresh-snapped verdant floralcy which is later tempered by arid woods, hot black coffee, silken sandalwood of John’s own devising, and ambergris. Davana’s sweet, wine-like fruity balsamic tones compliment lilac; they enhance each element by infusing a boozy, woody/herbal character and innate delicious decadence.
— Ida Meister, Ca Fleure Bon review of Vaporocindro

Ca Fleure Bon is also offering a giveaway alongside the review, so do check it out while it is still available. A big thank you to the creators and Ida for such delicately-woven words that bring a new light to this work.

New Release for October: Vaporocindro

John Biebel

It's been in the works for a few months, but I'm happy to report that the newest perfume is finally here, Vaporocindro:

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This perfume made a debut earlier this year in July at the Trunk Show at Tigerlily Perfumery in San Francisco, but it was a rather different creature at that time. I was giving out samples of the perfume then, but also received some rather important feedback in the process. As with all creations, it's a matter of process, refining, testing, adjusting. It's really rewarding to look back and see how something has evolved.

My initial idea with Vaporocindro was to combine three primary elements: lilac, spices, and wood. As soon as that idea made itself know, I began working but soon new questions arose. What kind of wood? That investigation alone began exploration into the many faces of each of these elements. I was searching out a particularly dry texture to wood smells. Then, when it came to spice elements, I was drawn to the particularly dry character of turmeric. This, paired with the vaporousness of lilacs revealed itself in the name, a fantasy word of two elements in the artificial language Esperanto, "vapor" and "ash".


Vaporocindro Notes: Lilac, green leaves, apple, turmeric, black pepper, jonquil, mahogany, cedar, agar, davana, black currant, cumin, coffee, sandalwood, ambergris


This was also a perfume that required investigation into the making of lilac. As many know, it's difficult (near impossible) to capture lilac in its natural state, but it can be recreated with some accuracy. This process, however, can take many forms, from simple concoctions to much more complex ones. I spent about a month working on a lilac accord that had authenticity and an ability to last. Lilac can be a very fleeting note, so to preserve it on the skin is a challenge.

In the end, putting together an idea of pairings does not itself make a perfume - it's inspired by a bigger idea; in this case, it was built from the notion hypnosis or hypnotic scents. I usually think of this quality when smelling tuberose or gardenia, but lilac spoke most strongly to me. What is the spell that we are put under from the effect of lilac?

The illustration I made to accompany the scent depicts this notion of hypnosis in a vintage style: 

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The perfume will have its official release on Saturday, 7 October, with some samples going out beforehand. I am looking forward to hearing your response to the new scent, and hope that January has now placed another pinpoint in its olfactive map.

Reviews and Media and New Releases

John Biebel

It's been a busy summer for January Scent Project, beginning with the Trunk Show at Tigerlily, and then with the development of Perfume #4 (which is still undergoing some work, to be released within approximately a month.) This scent was debuted in an earlier form at the Tigerlily event as a work in progress but has evolved over July and August into something richer but also more sublime. More news to come on that front very soon.

Meanwhile, there has been some excellent press around the three January Scent Project perfumes. We were mentioned in a wonderful article by Alex Musgrave (writer for Ca Fleure Bon and other freelance projects in the UK and US.) The magazine is a luxurious affair dedicated to beautiful and radical approaches to gardening, based in the UK, called Rakesprogress, and Smolderose is mentioned in a piece about rose perfumes.

from The Scent of a Rose by Alex Musgrave, writer in Scotland, for Rakesprogress magazine, UK.

from The Scent of a Rose by Alex Musgrave, writer in Scotland, for Rakesprogress magazine, UK.

We've also been the subject of some excellent video reviews online, including those by Pep at The Scentinel, and his fascinatingly detailed review of Selperniku:

And also a review by Max Forti of Eiderantler:

I was part of a workshop of indie perfumers on Ca Fleure Bon called "Perfumers Workshop: The ART of Artisan Perfume and the Next Generation" alongside some incredible perfumers such as Claire Baxter of Sixteen 92, Daniel Gallagher of Gallagher Fragrances, Pissara Umvijani of Dusita Paris and Prin Lomros of Pryn Parfums. All three fragrances were also featured by Brazillian writer and perfume reviewer Cassiano Silva of Perfumart in his review of all three scents by January Scent Project. Eiderantler was also reviewed by Odiferess blog in a fascinating essay at her corner of the web. I'm very grateful for the attention that the scents have received - I extend very warm thanks to all who have taken time out to describe the perfumes and for the writers' close, critical noses and eyes.

I can't help but betray a bit of ease which envelops me as we head into the autumn. This is a generous time, and to the world of perfumers, a bounty. The wide landscape of flowers now gives way to woods, spices, and late bloomers like chrysanthemums (my favorite of all flowers.) but it's a time to reflect, nurture, and learn. I love the landscape at this time and get more inspiration than ever when the nights grow cooler. So as perfume #4 comes into its own, #5 is not far behind, and the ideas for that are incubating as I speak. I hope you are all looking toward autumn with open arms and with leaves falling peacefully on you. This is a time of magic, smoke, shadows, bright skies, and orange against blue.